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Switzerland is one of the cleanest, most efficiently run countries I have ever visited. Known for chocolate, cheese and the beautiful Alps, this small country doesn’t disappoint. Due to the varied terrain, packing should include a few warmer clothes even during summer nights, but be prepared for daytime sun and heat.
Important to note, the trains are on almost always on time. You can buy first or second class tickets. I did not find first class to be much more comfortable, but it was generally less crowded. Also, if you shop in Italy and cross the border into Switzerland, you will not get your passport stamped, nor will you get your VAT stamped if you do any shopping. In Italy, we were told someone would walk through the train at the border. This did not happen. They didn’t even check our passports.
Zermatt
Getting there: I traveled to Vermont, Switzerland via train from Milan, Italy. There is nothing direct so you must choose between transferring at either Brig or Visp. I was advised that transferring at Visp would be easier—which turned out to be true on the way to Zermatt. However, on the return trip, that wasn’t the case. With a lot of luggage, 8 minutes wasn’t enough time to make the connection.
If you are driving, please note that cars are not allowed in Zermatt. You will have to park in Täsch and take the train in to Zermatt.
I chose to stay at La Couronne, primarily because they have a hot tub (that wasn’t very hot) with a view of the Matterhorn. The hotel was very nice and service was quite attentive. I had prearranged for a pick up and they were on time, even allowing an early check in and check out.
Another important note is that you can see the Matterhorn everywhere so if your hotel view doesn’t face it, don’t worry. If you don’t get up to Gornergrat, that’s okay. As long as the Matterhorn isn’t completely covered in clouds, it is impossible to miss.
Hiking or Skiing, depending on the season
There are a plethora of hikes that cater to all abilities. Having read mixed reviews about the 5-lakes hike, I decided to only walk a portion of it and then head to my lunch reservation. The 5-Lakes Trail begins with a funicular to Sunnegga (which is completely underground) and then a gondola to Blauherd. It is a short but uphill hike to Stellisee. I was a bit disappointed to see how crowded the lake was, but the weather was great for hiking so I should not have been surprised. Stellisee is a lake that reflects the Matterhorn when the conditions are right. Unfortunately they were not right the day I visited as it was cloudy. Continuing down to the next lake, we passed numerous waterfalls, sheep and Moosjisee, an artificial reservoir with a beautiful color cause by glacial silt.
Chez Vrony
If you want to eat at Chez Vrony, you have to hike or ski in and you need a reservation. The fastest way to get there is to take the funicular to Sunnega and walk/ski down from there to the hamlet of Findeln. There are signs everywhere.
After lunch you can hike back up to the Sunnega station or you can walk 90 minutes back to town. Just be aware that hiking downhill isn’t as easy as it sounds.
Gornergrat
There are plenty of reviews about Gornergrat vs Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. I was limited on time so I chose Gornergrat. Be mindful if you are sensitive to altitude since Goernergrat is at 10,000 feet and Glacier Paradise is even higher. The entrance to the station is almost directly across from the main train station. Gornergrat was absolutely beautiful with gorgeous glaciers and a phenomenal view of the Matterhorn, but I really didn’t have enough time to justify the price. Including waiting time, you need a solid hour to get up and an hour to get back. I only had 2.5 hours which meant I had very little time there. It is 132CHF (as of Summer 2025) for the roundtrip ticket (a little less during winter), of which I had a half off card bringing my total to 66CHF, which is about $80USD. I had hoped that the Cogwheel ride alone would make the trip worthwhile, but it wasn’t all that and the Cogwheel I took to Mt. Pilatus a few days later was much more interesting.
Zurich
A global financial center, Zurich is the largest city in Switzerland. The capital city of Bern is about an hour away by train. It hosts the largest techno street party in Europe on the 2nd Saturday in August, which happened to be my last day in town. It was originally a demonstration for freedom, love and liberal thinking. It is focused near the opera house and lake (pictures not taken the day of the party), so was easy to avoid if you stayed by the Limmat River.
I found Zurich to be a great place to stay since it is easy to do day trips around the country or even to other countries. It’s only an hour to Liechtenstein and slightly beyond to Germany. I stayed at the Zurich Marriott, located along the Limmat River and an easy 10 minute walk through the park to the main train station. If you have luggage, you might consider a taxi to avoid gravel walking paths. I found this area to be slightly less touristy and where many locals liked to hang out.
Walking around Zurich was really pleasant. I didn’t feel the need to hop on public transportation, although it looked easy enough. The longest walk was from the Marriott to the beginning of the lake. There are many different chocolate shops to stop and some offer samples. There are also over 1200 public water fountains across the city. FYI – they charge for tap water in restaurants across the country so fill your water bottle up!
My favorite meal in Zurich was hands down, Swiss Chuchi, located at the Adler Hotel. The fondue was fantastic. I also had sautéed vegetables that had too much oil, but the description mentioned oil so I should have said something if it was going to be an issue. That’s my bad, not theirs.
Lucerne
Mt. Pilatus
I wasn’t sure I would have enough time for this excursion since I only had one day to see Lucerne. It ended up being perfect. I left Zurich at 8am and was done with Pilatus and in Lucerne by 1:30pm. The hardest part was finding the right bus to take me from the train to Kriens and the small (4-6 person) panoramic gondola that would take me halfway to Pilatus. FYI – high season meant that even with a ticket, the wait can be long. If you don’t have a ticket, there is a separate (and long) line you must wait in first. You can stop at the midway point of Fräkmüntegg to ride the Frakigaudi, the longest toboggan run in Switzerland. They also have ropes courses and other fun activities, especially for kids. From there you continue on the “Dragon Ride” (55 person) aerial cableway that takes you to the summit. There are many different hiking and walking trails ranging in ability.
All of the dragon references refer to a belief from the Middle Ages that healing dragons lived in the crevices of Mt Pilatus. Thus we have the Dragon Ride, the Dragon Flier (in Fräkmüntegg) and the Dragon Path, a very easy walk at the end of the Panorama Gallery that takes about 20 minutes. When you are ready to return, you can take the cogwheel down (or up if you prefer), which is also a unique experience since it is quite steep. An advanced reservation that locks in your time is recommended during high season. It also puts you at the front of the line to get on, providing the best seat for good views.
Lucerne / Luzern
Lucerne (the French/Italian spelling) aka Luzern (the German spelling) is a very walkable cute city located on Lake Lucerne. An icon of the city is Chapel Bridge, the oldest covered wooden bridge in Europe, which spans the Reuss River, connecting the charming medieval Old Town with the new town (which is where the main train station is located). In the middle of the bridge is the Wasserturm, an octagonal water tower that was built in the 1300s. It has had many different uses including a prison, an archive and a treasury. Nearby is the Nölliturm, another historic tower in Lucerne that forms part of the Museggmauer, a medieval fortification wall that circles the old town. This stone tower was built in the early 1500s and is one of nine along the Musegg Wall and is located on the bank of the Reuss River.
A 15 minute walk away is the Lion Monument, a sculpture that was carved into the sandstone rock face. It is a tribute to Swiss Guards who were killed during the French Revolution.
If you have the time and energy, a walk along the Musegg Wall is nice. It is one the best preserved medieval fortifications in Switzerland and provides beautiful panoramic views of the city and Lake Lucerne.
I don’t think I would have seen much more if I had been in Lucerne for a full day. But I do think it is worthy of a couple of days. Perhaps I would stay here instead of Zurich and do day trips from here. It was really cute and a place I would like to return and see even more!
